(I also did the front main seal while I was at it getting to it is another story, but the punch and drill to remove it worked there too.After a decade on the market, the 700 Series from Volvo deserved an honorable retirement leaving the place for its successor, the 900 Series. PS I did all 4 of mine the punch and drill worked perfectly on the intake seals as well. With the right tools, replacing the seals is quite easy. Oh, yeah, I have the close area drill attachment (Harbor Freight has one on sale this week, I think-good to have when you need it). I did not want to scratch or gouge anything in there. Getting the first old seal out was the most time consuming for me until I punched and drilled them. Take your seals with you to the store and just find the pvc fitting that is closest to the diameter of the seal without going over. (If you do the intake seals, I think those are inch and a half. You just want a round cylinder to evenly press the new lubed seal into its seat. INSTALLATION TRICK: Hit the PVC bins at your local big box hardware store and get a pvc cap that's inch and a quarter (1 1/4")Ī sleeve will do. You don not want the shaft to turn on a dry seal. Put some GREASE on the inside rim of the seal where it will contact the shaft. Then: Spray some silicone inside the housing and you'll get some on the camshaft at the same time.Īlso spray silicone around the outside of the seal (the rubber rim). Make sure there's no crud around the outside of the seal housing where the edge of the seal needs to be leak free. NEXT: Clean things up in there with a rag wrapped around a prod of some kind-like a screw driver. Keep turning the screw slowly and the threads will hold in the seal's metal face and walk the seal right out. The screw point will contact the middle of the back of the housing behind the seal. With the hole drilled, find a screw that's a bit bigger than the hole and screw it in slowly. I center punched mine first to hold the drill on point. Instead, drill a small hole through the metal face of the seal. Maybe no harm was done, but you might score the shaft or the aluminum housing that holds the seal. I suggest you don't try to dig out the seal like Rob's pic shows. I bought the long handle seal remover from Harbor Freight and have found a couple of uses for it but not on this seal. Rob was lucky I think that turning the engine over with that plate on unevenly didn't take out his timing sensor (the two come very close when the camshaft is turning). That's because the slot in the end of the camshaft cuts a little below the center line-designed so you can't install the plate wrong. If you try to put it on the other way it doesn't set flat. The exhaust seal has a metal face-the surface you're looking at when you remove the back plate with the center screw. Make sure you have a good sharp bit to avoid that problem. I used plently of PB Blaster and with help finally got it out. I'll add a couple of things, and a few more pics.įirst, some bad wrenching left me with a lower Torx screw that was almost rounded out. Rob beat me to the pic's with a really helpful writeup. Good luck and post here if you get stuck. Im sure if I could have located my eyeglass repair kit *just picked up a replacement* it would have been a bit easier to use the tiny flat head. But then again I used needle nose plyers to get the seal out. I realized this half way in, after I runied my current seal that there is a point of no return. I am going to order a new cam seal and replace it this week and hopefully get some life out of the new CPS. Once I installed the new CPS she fired right up and is running like a chance. Is there a release on the metal mounting bracket itself?Įdit: I got it out with no problem, 14 years of oil and corrosion made it seem like it would not move. My question is how to you remove the sensor plug from the bracket? It appears that it slides out toward to drivers side. I have one question, the sensor plug is held by a bracket with the spring loaded lock on the bottom which disconnects the main harness from the sensor.
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